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Lecturer(s)
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Burgert Ladislav, doc. Ing. CSc.
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Bayerová Petra, Ing. Ph.D.
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Course content
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Pre-treatment, final-treatment and special treatment of single textile fibers - loose fibers, yarns and fabrics. Levelness (uniformity) of pre-treatments, its influence of the uniformity of dyeing. Pre-treatment of cotton, types of impurities of vegetable fibers - proteins, polysaccharide, ash, wax. Demineralisation of cotton fobers, sequestering agents and ist application in textile pre-treatment. Sizing materials for sizing, desizing of cotton (linen) fabrics. Scouring (alkali-boiling) of cotton - cotton wax, caustic treatment by the continuous process - dewaxing of natural vegetable fibers. Bleaching process for cotton and flax with hydrogen peroxide and sodium hypochlorite. Degradation of impurities on natural fibers and oxidation and degradation of polysaccharide fibers in process of alkali-boiling and bleaching process. Formation of hydrocellulose and oxycellulose. Mercerisation of cotton (flax) - yarn and cloth mercerisation, changes in fiber, yarn and fabrics properties by the mercerisation (swelling, luster of materials, modification of the cellulose structure, mechanical properties of mercerised materials). Machinery for mercerisation. Liquid ammonia treatment of cotton fibers. Pre-treatment of wool, loose wool scouring, elimination of lanolin, carbonization of wool (carbonization of cellulosic impurities in wool), the bleaching of wool. Pre-treatment of fabrics and knitted goods from chemical (man-made) fabrics - washing. Fixation (setting) of textile materials from chemical fibers - structural and mechanical changes of materials during fixation. Influence of fixation on the dyeing of chemical fibers. Evaluation of degree of fixation. Functional finishes of cellulosic fibers - (anti-creasing finish, crease proofing; anti - shrinking, shrinkproof finish). Dimensional stability of cotton fabrics - sanforizing of cotton fabrics. Cross-linking of cellulose (cotton fibers) with formaldehyde containing and formaldehyde - free reactants. These chemical and mechanical finishes are referred to as "easy care", "permanent press" or "durable press" . These fabrics property improvements are achieved by cross-linking the cellulosic polymer into the fibers. Durable press testing - ability to recover from induced wrinkling. Size setting (fixation, stabilization) and figure stabilization of wool fabrics - chemistry of amino-acids (cystin), hydrogen bonds and covalent inter two peptide chains in fiber of wool. Milling of wool fabrics. Crabbing, pressing and decatizingof wool fibers. Flame retardance of fabrics, legislation and flame retardance development. Flammability and hazards: definition, principles and testing. Mechanism of flame retardants (FR) activity of phosphorus and sulfur derivatives. Flame- retarding process for cellulose fibers (fabrics) and wool. Repellent finishes - theory of repellency, contact angles in real systems, critical surface tension and surface energy. Repellents with hydrocarbon hydrophobes, silicones, fluorochemical repellents, soil retardants. Water-repellents tests, oil-repellents tests. Antistatic treatments. Feel (touch, handle)- finishing, silicones chemistry. Antimicrobial and fungicidal treatment of fabrics. Protective finishes against moth and insects of wool goods.
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Learning activities and teaching methods
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Monologic (reading, lecture, briefing)
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Learning outcomes
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Students will be inform about basic physiochemical and chemical principles of pre-treatment, final and special treatment of textile materials. Pre-treatments are mainly realized on the natural fibers and theiy would be make easier subsequent technological procedures.
Development and preparation of textile pre-treatment and special modification including textiles for health and textiles for mass destruction weapons protective textiles (for example antimicrobial treatment).
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Prerequisites
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Basic knowledge of organic and macromolecular chemistry, basic knowledge of colloristic.
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Assessment methods and criteria
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Oral examination
Oral exam. The debate over selected lines is basic part of exam. Student exhibit the rate of acquired knowledge.
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Recommended literature
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Grayson M. Encyclopedia of Textiles, Fibers, and Nonwoven Fabrics. John Wiley & Sons, New York, 1984.
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Chwala A., Anger V. Handbuch der Textilhilfsmittel. Verlag Chemie Weinheim, 1977.
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Lewin M. Handbook of Fiber Science and Technology: (Vol. I, Part A,B) Chemical Processing of Fibers and Fabrics, Fundamentals and Preparation. Marcel Dekker, INC, New York, 1983.
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Lewin M. Handbook of Fiber Science and Technology: (Vol. II, Part A,B) Chemical Processing of Fibers and Fabrics, Functional Finishes. Marcel Dekker, INC, New York, 1983.
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Lindner K. Tenside-Textilhilfsmittel-Waschrohstoffe. Stuttgart, 1964.
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Peters R.H. Textile Chemistry (Vol. II.), Impurities in Fibres, Purification of Fibres. Elsevier, Amsterdam, 1967.
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